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The Antilles’ Carnival follows the universal
carnival tradition but has a distinctly European flavor.
In Martinique carnival festivities commence on the first Sunday
after the Epiphany and reach their climax on Shrove Tuesday
In 2012 these 5 days of celebration are from
Saturday 18 to Wednesday 22 February.

The festivities start straight after the
Epiphany, that is to say even up to 2 months before Shrove Tuesday.
The weekends host street parades, themed events and private
celebrations that grow in intensity as the season progresses.
The local government and community representatives meet to organize
the festivities, every Sunday sees processions throughout the
island.
Every village elects a Queen and Junior Queen to be carried in
triumph at the grand parade. Even the grandmothers compete for the
honor, dressing in their finest traditional costumes.
Hidden from prying eyes each village has
prepared new costumes and props which are unveiled only for the “vidé”
or Carnival Parade which occupies the streets of Fort de France for
the 5 days....

During the carnival the daily life of
Martinique
comes to a stand still and the island comes alive with “Carnival
Fever”. Preparations start months in advance.
During the five days of official celebration
many of the younger generations don’t sleep, parading by day and
partying by night.
The Carnival King, or VAVAL (a satirical
mannequin representing a politician, a public figure or an
institution), is carried through the streets leading the festival
parade. The Carnival Queen , elected from the various villages, is
seated beside the Vaval during the parades.

Martinique’s most famous musical groups spread
out across the island between the parades ensuring the villages are
filled with music 24 hours a day and drawing the crowds along in
their wake.
The carnival is also an opportunity to show
off the traditional masks of the island:
The red clay men wear masks covered entirely in red clay, the
nègs gwo-sirop, men coated from head to toe in sugar syrup and
charcoal (are caricatures of the rebel slaves from Africa in
contrast to the native Creole islanders); mariann lapofig,
dressed entirely in banana leaves; the moko-zombis are
dancers on African inspired trampolines; the guiablesses…mingling
in glitzy costumes both the beautiful girls of the island as well as
the young men cross-dressing in the abandon of the moment.

During the Vidè the island throbs with
pulsing music, tambourines, trumpets and horns are accompanied by
steel drums, bamboo sticks even pots and pans become percussion
instruments, the rhythms overlapping from Zouk to beguin.
There is even a street parade in pigiamas
that heads off at 5 am filling the streets of Lamentin with the
shuffling of “slippered” feet.
The pinnacle of the festivities is during the
four days leading up to Ash Wednesday.
Every day has its theme, Saturday and Sunday
everyone dresses up as they please, Monday is the day of Burlesque
Weddings, men dressed as brides parading on foot, float and brad jak....
Tuesday is the day of the devil: everyone
dressed in red and costumed as the devil. Finally on Ash Wednesday,
the day dedicated to the joyeuses pleureuses (devilettes,
devils that cry for the death of Vaval), all dressed in black and
white of mourning for the death of Vaval, who is symbolically burnt
on a bonfire at nightfall.
At the celebration’s end the island enters the
period of Lent, that leads up to Easter.
Lent, the period of fasting and abstinence coincides with the dry
season on Martinique. Tradition requires that one does not dance,
listen to music and all weddings and other celebrations are
postponed until after Lent.
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A bit of
history…..
The carnival
was first celebrated in Martinique at Saint Pierre by the
French Catholics in the 18° century. In the 17° and 18°
century it was a celebration reserved for the rich colonies,
with elegant receptions in costume.
Only after the abolition of Slavery in 1848 the carnival was
democratized and adopted its characteristic style,
influenced by the former slaves’ adaptation of their own
beliefs and traditional instruments: tambourines, cha-cha,
ti-bois…

The
Carnival of Saint Pierre
From 1848 to 1902 the Carnival of Saint Pierre was
particularly renowned in Martinique, despite the fact that
the celebrations at the time were overshadowed by the
discrimination of the time . In effect, one side of the
colony was celebrating with masked balls, private banquettes
and luxurious costumes whilst the other side of the island
was occupied with celebrations of the vidés nègres. After
the catastrophe of Saint Pierre, the carnival festivities
were halted for 2 years in Martinique.
It was upon recommencement that the Carnival relocated its
hub to Fort de France
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